SRFACE Diaries gives you a peek into the lives of our ambassadors. In every diary entry we post an interview with one of our ambassadors. Because we all surf but have so much more that makes us interesting human beings. This week: Surfer, geographer and photographer Clare James from Cornwall, United Kingdom. Images by Clare James.
Who are you and how did you start surfing?
I am a 29-year-old surfer with an addiction to photography. Or maybe a photographer with an addiction to surfing, I’m not 100% sure which way round it is. It wasn’t until going to university that I started to surf. In 2009 I moved to Falmouth to study Geography. In the first few months a friend and I hired a foamy, went to Porthtowan and then just ran each other over, lots. We were hooked, and eight-years- later we both live in Newquay, surf together most days and go on lots of trips.
Why do you surf?
Surfing is an escape from the world, no matter what worries I have, the ocean washes them away. I love most that surfing gives me an excuse to play and have fun without any pressures. It simply always makes me feel better. The rush I get from each session just keeps me going back for more.
What is your favorite surf destination?
It will either be Portugal or Ireland. Last autumn I went to Ireland and scored amazing waves! It is beautiful and wild, cold, wet and empty. And there is a lot more left to explore so I think I will have to go back :).
What is your favorite surf spot? We won’t spoil secrets
There are a few around here in the area, in particular a spot which takes some walking to get to. We often camp down there in the summer in order to make the most of a swell. Although when the conditions are right it is always worth the trek!
What does a typical day in your life look like?
A typical day usually starts with a strong coffee and some form of exercise. If there are waves I will try and go for a session to start the day. If not, I like cycling and going for a cold water dip to get the creative ideas flowing. Once I get home, I’ll do a few hours work, either shooting, quoting, editing or storyboarding. Luckily I work from home so if the conditions are good I might surf again. I have just rigged up a hammock outside which I try and work from whenever possible as it’s incredibly comfortable. I work around the weather and waves. Something I have been dreaming about doing for years and since going freelance a year ago it has become a reality :-).
What is your favorite surf movie and why?
Without doubt it is Dark Side of the Lens, by Mikey Smith. Hugely inspiring and beautifully shot. I can’t put a number on how many times I have watched it. Makes me excited to get in the water every time!
Name one thing you would give up surfing for
Can’t think of anything :-).
What accounts should we follow on Instagram and why?
There is a surf and travel guide called I love the Seaside. I have been working with them getting photographs for their UK and Ireland version, which is due to be published soon. They are wonderful people and the guides are beautiful, informative books!
Anywhere you want to point our readers to?
My website. Is self-promotion allowed? 😉
The ultimate wetsuit for every surfer
Shop from € 189